Rotwelsch Unconventional Black Knickerbocker Pants in Italian Luxury Wool

“Rotwelsch” is a black pair of Knickerbocker pants for women and men, made from 100% Italian wool by Faliero Sarti. A dropped crotch and generous volume through the hips and thighs meet a more defined leg line. Visible buttons, side pockets, an elasticated back waistband, and distinctive seam lines shape the cut. The slightly rough surface, inspired by the Wabi-Sabi philosophy, contrasts with the fabric’s soft hand and fluid drape.

Black Knickerbocker Pants for Women and Men in Italian Luxury Wool

“Rotwelsch” reinterprets a historic trouser shape as a modern unisex design with altered proportions. The generous volume through the upper section allows freedom of movement and transitions into a more defined line toward the hem.

The deep black color draws attention to the cut and construction. A visible button placket structures the front, side pockets are integrated directly into the silhouette, and the elasticated back waistband provides a flexible fit. Depending on how it is styled, the pants can be worn in a minimal, formal way or as part of a distinctive avant-garde look.

Inspiration: Rotwelsch – A Language Outside Social Norms

The name “Rotwelsch” refers to a historical secret language used by various social groups throughout the German-speaking world from the late Middle Ages onward. Travelers, merchants, beggars, and people living outside the established social order used a vocabulary that was often unintelligible to outsiders and created its own form of communication within these communities.

Rotwelsch and related secret and underworld languages also left their mark on Vienna. Over time, individual words entered colloquial speech, dialect, and urban slang, where they developed new meanings.

This idea of displacement is reflected in the design itself. A historically familiar trouser shape is altered through its proportions: classically inspired elements meet unusual volume and a form that resists clear categorization. Familiar structures are rearranged to create an independent expression.

Cut & Silhouette: Dropped Crotch and Distinctive Proportions

The generous volume through the hips and thighs gives the pants their characteristic Knickerbocker silhouette while allowing freedom of movement. The leg becomes more controlled toward the hem, creating the contrast between a spacious upper section and a defined lower line that is characteristic of “Rotwelsch.”

At the front, the button placket creates a clear vertical accent. Side pockets and a piped back pocket complement the construction, while the wide waistband is elasticated at the back to adapt more flexibly to the body.

Distinctive seams structure the legs and support the three-dimensional construction. The hem can be worn straight or turned up, allowing the length and proportions of the pants to be subtly adjusted.

Italian Luxury Wool by Faliero Sarti

“Rotwelsch” is made from an Italian luxury fabric by Faliero Sarti in 100% wool. Its slightly rough, textured surface gives the deep black color a distinctive textile depth and allows the cut, seams, and folds to stand out clearly.

Despite its characterful appearance, the wool feels soft, drapes fluidly, and is not scratchy. The material combines an expressive surface with comfortable wear while supporting the distinctive shape of the pants.

Wabi-Sabi: Texture as Part of the Design

The slightly rough texture of the fabric reflects the Wabi-Sabi philosophy, in which the natural character of a material becomes part of its aesthetic appeal. In “Rotwelsch,” this texture remains intentionally visible and reinforces the individual character of the black wool.

Unisex Design: Individual Ways to Wear It

“Rotwelsch” is designed for both women and men, and its effect changes depending on body shape, size, and styling. Fitted or draped tops create a contrast with the generous trouser shape, while structured blazers and long coats emphasize its architectural character. The focus remains on cut, material, and the individual way the garment is worn.

Comfort & Everyday Wear

The generous shape provides freedom of movement while walking or sitting, while the elasticated back waistband supports a flexible fit. The soft quality of the wool and its fluid drape combine an unconventional construction with comfortable wear.

For everyday wear, the office, or the atelier, as well as galleries, travel, or evening events, “Rotwelsch” works as a statement piece on its own or as the foundation for monochrome layered looks.

Styling: Black Avant-Garde Looks for Women and Men

For men, “Rotwelsch” can be paired with the black designer blazer “Mises”. The defined shape of the blazer creates a striking counterpoint to the unusual proportions of the pants. Different wool qualities and construction lines become particularly visible within the all-black look.

On colder days, the black wool coat “Roquentin” completes the outfit. Its long shape extends the vertical line and frames the unconventional trouser silhouette within a consistently monochrome ensemble.

For women, “Rotwelsch” can be combined with the asymmetric women’s sweater “Bridewell”. Its draped shoulder section and sculptural collar continue the play with unconventional lines, while gray mélange creates a nuanced contrast with the deep black of the pants.

A fully black layered look can be created with the asymmetric long-sleeve top “Samain”. The draped layers of the top and the pronounced shape of the pants create a complex yet clearly monochrome composition. Statement boots or minimal leather shoes complete the look.

Craftsmanship & Atelier: Regionally Made, Individually Adjustable

Made in our regional workshop, “Rotwelsch” represents precise craftsmanship, small production runs, and a conscious approach to high-quality materials. Its cut, construction, and textured surface give the pants their distinctive character.

Upon request, “Rotwelsch” can be individually adjusted in our bespoke tailoring atelier in Vienna. Length, waistband, and proportions provide the basis for a personalized fit.

Discover “Rotwelsch” online or experience its material, cut, and surface in person at eigensinnig wien on Sankt-Ulrichs-Platz in Vienna.

Details

Designer Brand: eigensinnig wien
Color: Black
Material: 100% Wool
Fabric: Italian luxury fabric by Faliero Sarti
Surface: Slightly rough and textured, inspired by the Wabi-Sabi philosophy
Hand Feel: Soft to the touch, fluid in its drape, and not scratchy
Inspiration: Rotwelsch, a historical secret language of the German-speaking world
Style: Black unisex designer pants / avant-garde pants for women and men
Cut: Generous hip and thigh area, dropped crotch, defined leg line
Details: Visible button placket, wide waistband, elasticated back waistband, side pockets, piped back pocket, distinctive seam construction, turn-up hem
Care: Please follow the care instructions on the garment label

Size Reference

Male Model: 188 cm / 6'2", 70 kg / 154 lbs, size M
Female Model: 171 cm / 5'7", 52 kg / 115 lbs, size XS
Plus-Size Male Model: 183 cm / 6'0", 95 kg / 209 lbs, size XL
Plus-Size Female Model: 170 cm / 5'7", 83 kg / 183 lbs, size XL